Support

Unpack Your Kit

Before you start, lay out the contents of the box and confirm you have everything you need:

• A pair of light bars with cool white, warm white, and purple UV flasher diffused LEDs
• A 12V DC power supply with wall plug
• A single Pinlights Classic controller board
• 2 long black light bar connector cables (white 5-position Molex)
• 2 red/black sensor cables (white 2-position Molex)
• 2 red/black alligator clip connectors
• 2 Comet Matrix interface cables
• 4 wire taps (for getting into tight connectors)
• Protector plastics (top and bottom) with 4 brass standoffs and 8 M.3 machine screws
• 2 plastic ratcheting wire clips
• 2 alcohol wipes and an assortment of zip ties
• Optional, if ordered: Cabinet metal mounting brackets
• Optional, if ordered: Stern shaker connector cable (for triggering flashers with a Stern shaker)
• Optional, if ordered: WPC service port adapter

Install the Controller Board Plastics

The controller ships with top and bottom plastic protectors to prevent shorts. Secure the larger (bottom) plastic to the underside of the board with 4 machine screws, using the 4 brass standoffs as the other side of the fastener. Attach the smaller (top) plastic to the standoffs with the remaining 4 screws. Verify the plastic doesn't obstruct the GI and Flasher connectors.

Power the Controller

Plug the included 12V adapter into your game's service port (or a wall outlet if no service port is available) and into the barrel jack on the controller. The 3 power LEDs in the center of the board should illuminate. Double check both connections — loose cables are the most common cause of a unit appearing "dead."

Connect the GI & Flasher Sensor Cables

Plug the white Molex end of each red/black sensor cable into the GI and FL ports on the controller. The other end connects to one of the included interface options depending on your game:

• Alligator clips (universal) — clamp onto a GI lamp socket lug or flasher lug. Optionally combine with the included wire taps for tight spaces.
• Stern shaker cable (Spike only, if included) — connects the flasher input to the cabinet node board at CN16 using the supplied z-connector.

For games with RGB GI or tiny PCB-based GIs, a common trick is to tap the coin door bulbs using two of the included wire taps. Any signal voltage up to 48V is safe for the sensor inputs.

Prep the Cabinet Surfaces

Use the included alcohol wipes to clean the top inside edge of the cabinet on both sides — roughly a 1" strip just below the glass channel is plenty. Also wipe down the rear corners of the playfield backboard so the ratcheting wire clips have a solid surface to adhere to. Good prep is the difference between a permanent bond and a light bar that sags a month later.

Mount the Light Bars

The light bars have dedicated LEFT and RIGHT sides — the black connector cables should face the rear of the game. Choose the mounting method that came with your order:

Route & Secure the Cables

Connect each light bar to the 5-pin ports on the controller using the black (or rainbow) light bar cables. Stick the ratcheting wire clips onto the prepped areas of the playfield backboard and route the harness through them so normal playfield lifts don't tug on the connections. Tidy anything loose with the included zip ties.

Add Your Game in the Mobile App

Install the Pinlights mobile app on iOS or Android, then tap the + button on the My Games screen to add your new controller. The app will walk you through connecting to the controller via Bluetooth; if the controller can't be found, hold the NUKE button on the board for 10 seconds to reset its connection settings and try again. Pull down on the game list at any time to refresh device status.

Dial In Your Settings

Tap your game in the app to open its settings. A few of the most useful options:

• GI Cool/Warm White Mix — balance the color temperature of the playfield wash.
• GI Flasher Mix — mix a little UV (up to 30%) into the GI to counteract blue-tinted playfields.
• Duck GI During Flashers — momentarily drops the GI when a flasher fires for more dramatic pops.
• GI Smoothing — set higher on older AC-driven games (WPC, EM-era) to kill ripple; set lower on modern DC-driven games (Stern, Spooky, JJP).
• Tournament Mode — disables dimming for a steady, consistent wash.
• GI Minimum Brightness — forces a floor brightness on games whose GI strobes a lot.
• Turn off GI after (seconds) — pairs with the two options above so the lights don't stay on forever when the game is off.
• Flasher Brightness — sets the peak intensity of the UV flasher pulses.